PIN ERROR! NOT CHARGING! (RED COLOR)

[EEEE]

Looking at your picture 4 , it looks like the interlock mechanism is held on just with those 2 brass coloured fasteners.

undo those, unhook the cable linkage and connector and then take it indoors. It looks like the cover comes off with more small screws (the silver ones), and it shouldn't take too much head scratching to work out what the problem is. Also check the wiring harness connector, looks for any damaged cables from rodent damage.

Without taking one apart myself, I would expect.

1) 2 wires linked to a solenoid. Polarity one way makes it pop out, polarity the other way makes it retract.

2) perhaps 3 wires for the position sensor. Some sort of microswitch which is actuated by the pin as it pokes out and retracts. A common ground and then an 'in' and 'out' position so the car knows the pin physically went in and out. This can be tested on a continuity tester I expect.

This is just guess work, but I suspect all of your problems are inside that little box to the left. You have nothing to lose as its going to be pretty hard to get just this part on its own. Honda didn't make a million e's sadly, probably not even 10k units. Finding a spare reasonably prices is going to be hard if not impossible. Plus - id replace just the mechanism, not the whole socket. Replacing the whole socket seems like a much bigger and potentially more dangerous job - so you would still need to remove the interlock mechanism anyway.

[ARTEM]

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[ARTEM]

The mechanism was spinning hard! I took it out, lubricated it, it still turns hard, the plastic gears are very weak. Now all that remains is to check the operation of the drive-motor!

[EEEE]

I would replace the grease with perhaps some silicon based lubricating gel/paste. It should not gum up in cold weather or affect the plastics. I suspect once the old paste is removed, there will be no problem with the pin fully extending and retracting, which might be why the sense microswitch never reports properly, because the hardened paste is preventing full extension.

The sense switch seems to be under the white plastic retainer with a single screw. Obviously remove it, and check it feels like it is actuating properly. If possible, use a multimeter to confirm it is making/breaking connection. It may too be gummed up inside or affected by dried paste.

Thanks for sharing the pictures! I am not aware on the forum of others having issues with this part, so perhaps it is cold weather exclusive.

Also be sure to use a little lubricant when replacing the cover on the mechanism. This will help the seal to retain its waterproofness , as thin seals are prone to cracking when disturbed after time.

Let us know when you have success (Not long from now I'm sure!)

[ARTEM]

Thanks for the advice! I think everything will work out! I removed the motor and connected it to 12V - the motor rotates very slowly. After I pressed it with my finger during rotation, it stopped resisting altogether and stopped rotating completely! I came to the conclusion that it is he who is showing the error in the ECU! I order a motor on ALIEXPRESS - after replacement I will tell you the result. BUT there is a question - does a burnt out motor affect the valve position sensor?

[ARTEM]

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[FDAD]

Thanks for the advice! I think everything will work out! I removed the motor and connected it to 12V - the motor rotates very slowly. After I pressed it with my finger during rotation, it stopped resisting altogether and stopped rotating completely! I came to the conclusion that it is he who is showing the error in the ECU! I order a motor on ALIEXPRESS - after replacement I will tell you the result. BUT there is a question - does a burnt out motor affect the valve position sensor?

The motor seems to have some part number on in, nonetheless those are gerenic motors most of the time, a similar voltage/rpm one will solve it.

By your picture, seems like this is the replacement, they are common as fold rearview mirror motors for severall brands including Honda:


Always check sizes when ordering as the shaft my have a different diameter

[EEEE]

remember to clean out the mechanism.

Using google translate, the error message is not terribly useful. I suspect that the error is more about the switch that reports the pin position isnt changing when the motor runs.

That may be because:

1) Motor is weak
2) grease has solidified preventing full extension / retraction

Since it is a small motor, I doubt the ECU will be measuring its current/stifness/runtime. Especially since the operation of the device has an absolute feedback sensor, which would override anything you might guess from looking at the motor current.

You can probably trick the car into starting charging by manually pressing the tiny switch (black and white wire) when the motor operates. The car will think the motor has successfully pushed the pin out, and the switch confirms that. I suspect if you let go and the switch changes, the red light will come on instantly. DO NOT REMOVE THE CABLE OR INSERT IT WHEN IT IS CHARGING.

[ARTEM]

assembled the mechanism, lubricated it, installed it. But first the red light came on, and after 10 seconds the blue light came on and charging began. Most likely, the charging electronics were responsible for the lack of normal voltage in the motor.spare part number FC280SC-20150

[FDAD]

assembled the mechanism, lubricated it, installed it. But first the red light came on, and after 10 seconds the blue light came on and charging began. Most likely, the charging electronics were responsible for the lack of normal voltage in the motor.spare part number FC280SC-20150

Great success with the repair ARTEM! SUPER!