There are handle settings in the menu and ive selected something to "off" so the handles no longer pop open on approach, which I prefer.
I cant help but feel that something as key (if you forgive the pun) as un/locking, needs to be 100% assured and work reliably as intended.
I would love to be able to turn keyless un/locking off, so only the fob will un/lock the car.
On the dashcam front I've used Garmin Mini dashcams before, theres one in my wife's car at the moment. I went to look at footage yesterday incidentally and was unable to read a plate in daylight as a car (dangerously) overtook. As such Ive ordered a 4k VIOFO unit from Amazon and will see how I get on. Powering by fuse looks as easy as OBD. My preference is always for fuse as it means dashcam will continue to run if car is in for service work when OBD port might need to be accessed. I'm wary of running cables through headlining in case they obstruct airbag placement. To wire a rear one looks quite straightforward to run along the edge of the trim by the sills.
New owner with a couple of questions
LOLEEEE wrote: ↑Fri Mar 15, 2024 9:27 am OMG - Reuben80 is right, I would never have believed it!
A quick test just now confirms:
1) approach car
2) handles pop out
3) put all 4 fingers under the handle
4) press the fingertips against the backside of the handle, do not move the handle at all!
5) approx <0.5 secs later you hear the car unlock (confirming there is an invisible touch sensor, no ridges like the lock area!)
6) Then you can open the drivers door fine - even the back doors!
Why doesn't the manual mention this lol - all this time I just thought the keyless entry was a bit crap because the manual listed so many reasons it might not work. Also there is a tendency to use 1 or 2 fingers in the side and pull it open depending on where you are standing which might not trigger it.
Still stupid though - it needs to be instant for it to work optimally. If between reading the manual and opening the door several times a day for 2.5years it still wasn't obvious, tells you the execution of the idea was bad.
There are some things that are not written in the manual or not well known. Another one is to open an app directly on the opposite screen. You can swipe the app shortcut icon to the left or right in the direction of the other screen. No need to open and then click on the switch screen icon.
Another hidden feature is to disable the annoying displays every time you touch the AC settings.
- londiniumperson
- Posts: 1833
- Joined: Fri Oct 11, 2019 2:37 pm
Contact the support as directed within the MyHonda+ app.
However if you get the app working and linked to the car in less than 3 months and in less than 50+ call, emails & dealer visits then you'll have done better than me.
2020 Advance in Crystal Black Pearl on 17's - 08/2020-Current
2015 VW Tiguan (Pure White) - 04/2018-Current
1991 Honda Beat PP1 (Festival Red) - 11/2022-Current
2015 VW Tiguan (Pure White) - 04/2018-Current
1991 Honda Beat PP1 (Festival Red) - 11/2022-Current
Owned the Honda e since August 2020
As an owner of the Honda e since it first came out it’s still an absolute joy to drive. The e is the second car in the household and is purely used for local driving. It very rarely goes more then 20 miles from the house so we never suffer range anxiety. With Octopus Energy Agile tariff it can be anywhere from free to charge to £6 depending on the time and if it’s windy (when it’s windy it seems to drop the price per kWh dramatically)
In terms of issues over the almost 4 years.
In the first couple of weeks all screens went totally black whilst out on the road which meant we couldn’t see the speed we were doing or anything else for that matter. Honda came out and sorted the issue which was a flat 12v battery (we took it camping for the weekend and I had a fridge plugged into it and the kids were playing the mini snes for hours so partly my fault ). I was able to get home and it turns out there was an issue with the screen and it was replaced under warranty.
In terms of tire degradation, I have only replaced the rear set once in the time I have had the car. If heavy footed in wet conditions you can spin the rear tires and it’s quite fun slipping the back out every so often.
The only other issue I had was a total brake simulation control. Unfortunately this was a total failure and the car was undriveable. This happened earlier this year and the car was in the garage for 3 weeks but again covered under warranty. The cost of the repair if I was to have paid for it was £2,500
I purchased the extended warranty on the car last year.
In terms of range, I have never seen the car show a range of more than 115 miles with the air con or heating on and in the winter it’s about 65 with heating on or 75 without. For me it doesn’t make much difference, the car is parked at home every night and I can charge it if I decide to.
Overall, my wife and I are very happy owners of the car for almost 4 years and we intend to keep it at least until the warranty runs out on the battery. The extended warranty can be purchased up until 8 years and I believe that you are on your own after that. I haven’t yet enquired about a battery replacement if ever it was needed but it’s been reading the same range every time I’ve charged it since I’d got it so so far no degradation.
Hope this helps anyone looking to purchase one second hand. If your not fussed about going far in it and have charging at home then it’s ideal. Summer we charge once a week and in the winter it’s about every 4- 5 days.
It also charges in 4-4.5 hours from 1% to 100%
Note: we have taken it on longer journeys about 80 miles where we have had to charge fully to get home but the charging station costs are ludicrous. Typically costs around £17- £20 to charge.
As an owner of the Honda e since it first came out it’s still an absolute joy to drive. The e is the second car in the household and is purely used for local driving. It very rarely goes more then 20 miles from the house so we never suffer range anxiety. With Octopus Energy Agile tariff it can be anywhere from free to charge to £6 depending on the time and if it’s windy (when it’s windy it seems to drop the price per kWh dramatically)
In terms of issues over the almost 4 years.
In the first couple of weeks all screens went totally black whilst out on the road which meant we couldn’t see the speed we were doing or anything else for that matter. Honda came out and sorted the issue which was a flat 12v battery (we took it camping for the weekend and I had a fridge plugged into it and the kids were playing the mini snes for hours so partly my fault ). I was able to get home and it turns out there was an issue with the screen and it was replaced under warranty.
In terms of tire degradation, I have only replaced the rear set once in the time I have had the car. If heavy footed in wet conditions you can spin the rear tires and it’s quite fun slipping the back out every so often.
The only other issue I had was a total brake simulation control. Unfortunately this was a total failure and the car was undriveable. This happened earlier this year and the car was in the garage for 3 weeks but again covered under warranty. The cost of the repair if I was to have paid for it was £2,500
I purchased the extended warranty on the car last year.
In terms of range, I have never seen the car show a range of more than 115 miles with the air con or heating on and in the winter it’s about 65 with heating on or 75 without. For me it doesn’t make much difference, the car is parked at home every night and I can charge it if I decide to.
Overall, my wife and I are very happy owners of the car for almost 4 years and we intend to keep it at least until the warranty runs out on the battery. The extended warranty can be purchased up until 8 years and I believe that you are on your own after that. I haven’t yet enquired about a battery replacement if ever it was needed but it’s been reading the same range every time I’ve charged it since I’d got it so so far no degradation.
Hope this helps anyone looking to purchase one second hand. If your not fussed about going far in it and have charging at home then it’s ideal. Summer we charge once a week and in the winter it’s about every 4- 5 days.
It also charges in 4-4.5 hours from 1% to 100%
Note: we have taken it on longer journeys about 80 miles where we have had to charge fully to get home but the charging station costs are ludicrous. Typically costs around £17- £20 to charge.
Quick update from me since the thread was at the top of the pile. Ive done a whopping 200 miles since I owned it. Its a third car primarily used for local journeys. Ive been greasing the handle hinges weekly with some spray grease and plan to do this as regularly as I remember. I've fitted front and rear dashcams, rear was a real pain. Ive swapped out the stock battery for the recommended Yuasa unit as a precaution (what to do with the stock Panasonic battery?). Ive added a little magsafe wireless charger for my iphone to the left of the steering column where there is a small bit of flat real estate. Its powered by the Garmin constant power OBD adapter, with the other port powering the dual VIOFO dashcam setup.
The brake simulator issue is something that I am worried about. Im toying with the idea of seeing if I can find a local garage who can flush it and fill it with silicon based DOT 5 fluid instead. Grateful for thoughts on that? I assume anyone who has suffered the issue would thoroughly be on board with any preventative measures.
Very much enjoying the hustle of the little RWD engine and the tiny turning circle is great.
I wouldnt mind a smidge more power, wouldnt we all? Also the side cameras are cool but.... sometimes I miss a regular mirror for clarity.
The brake simulator issue is something that I am worried about. Im toying with the idea of seeing if I can find a local garage who can flush it and fill it with silicon based DOT 5 fluid instead. Grateful for thoughts on that? I assume anyone who has suffered the issue would thoroughly be on board with any preventative measures.
Very much enjoying the hustle of the little RWD engine and the tiny turning circle is great.
I wouldnt mind a smidge more power, wouldnt we all? Also the side cameras are cool but.... sometimes I miss a regular mirror for clarity.
Further update. Still enjoying the car. I’ve since added a MagSafe charging dock for my iPhone and stuck it in the void in the dash on the left of the steering column (RHD car). Works really well…..
Except…. The first warmer weather we have had in the UK and the sticky pad holding my MagSafe charger and my dashcam have come loose which is frustrating. Will likely need to find some more heavy duty adhesive pads or tape than provided with each.
Except…. The first warmer weather we have had in the UK and the sticky pad holding my MagSafe charger and my dashcam have come loose which is frustrating. Will likely need to find some more heavy duty adhesive pads or tape than provided with each.
- londiniumperson
- Posts: 1833
- Joined: Fri Oct 11, 2019 2:37 pm
I've never had an issue with dash cams or anything else that I've stuck in any car, whether using the supplied tape or 3M VHB.MrM83 wrote: ↑Sun May 05, 2024 9:29 am Further update. Still enjoying the car. I’ve since added a MagSafe charging dock for my iPhone and stuck it in the void in the dash on the left of the steering column (RHD car). Works really well…..
Except…. The first warmer weather we have had in the UK and the sticky pad holding my MagSafe charger and my dashcam have come loose which is frustrating. Will likely need to find some more heavy duty adhesive pads or tape than provided with each.
I might telling you to suck eggs, but the most important things are:
- Always fully clean and then degrease both surfaces (item & place where affixing) with something that will not leave a residue, i.e. 95%+ IPA.
- Never touch the degreased or tape surfaces.
- Never try to adjust/remove & reattach using the same tape, always clean/degrease and use fresh tape.
- Push & hold the item as soon as you attach it with a firm pressure for at least 30 seconds.
- If there is a separate bracket with fixing tape, then don't attach the item to the bracket for at least 24 hours to ensure that tape adheres fully.
2020 Advance in Crystal Black Pearl on 17's - 08/2020-Current
2015 VW Tiguan (Pure White) - 04/2018-Current
1991 Honda Beat PP1 (Festival Red) - 11/2022-Current
2015 VW Tiguan (Pure White) - 04/2018-Current
1991 Honda Beat PP1 (Festival Red) - 11/2022-Current
Thanks for the input. I think I have multiple issues at play. I used a supplied wipe to prep the surface but I do have some IPA spray so will go down that route if I continue to have issues. The front VIOFO dashcam I have is really bloody heavy and also runs really hot, and the two attributes combined are causing some issues with adhesion I think.
With regards to the MagSafe charger, the dash surface has a slight texture so the surface isn’t perfectly flat so I might need to work on the bond.
With regards to the MagSafe charger, the dash surface has a slight texture so the surface isn’t perfectly flat so I might need to work on the bond.
- londiniumperson
- Posts: 1833
- Joined: Fri Oct 11, 2019 2:37 pm
I used 3M VHB for my magsafe charger install, see here Apple MagSafe Charger Installation & it's remained attached for over 2.5 years so far.MrM83 wrote: ↑Sun May 05, 2024 6:41 pm Thanks for the input. I think I have multiple issues at play. I used a supplied wipe to prep the surface but I do have some IPA spray so will go down that route if I continue to have issues. The front VIOFO dashcam I have is really bloody heavy and also runs really hot, and the two attributes combined are causing some issues with adhesion I think.
With regards to the MagSafe charger, the dash surface has a slight texture so the surface isn’t perfectly flat so I might need to work on the bond.
2020 Advance in Crystal Black Pearl on 17's - 08/2020-Current
2015 VW Tiguan (Pure White) - 04/2018-Current
1991 Honda Beat PP1 (Festival Red) - 11/2022-Current
2015 VW Tiguan (Pure White) - 04/2018-Current
1991 Honda Beat PP1 (Festival Red) - 11/2022-Current
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